CLUTCH

Adjustments

PEDAL HEIGHT

1. Remove the floor mat.
2. Loosen the locknut on the adjusting bolt, stopper bolt or clutch switch.
3. Turn the adjusting bolt until the clearance between the upper surface of the pedal pad and the firewall is within specification:
   • 1982-83 GLC: 7.28-7.68 in. (185-195mm)
   • 1984-85 GLC: 9.06-9.25 in. (230-235mm)
   • 1979-85 RX-7: 7.28-7.68 in. (185-195mm)
   • 1986-89 RX-7: 8.46-8.86 in. (215-225mm)
   • 1982-88 626: 8.46-8.66 in. (215-220mm)
   • 1988-89 626 and MX-6: 8.50-8.70 in. (216-221mm)
   • 1986-89 323 (cable type): 8.43-8.62 in. (214-219mm)
   • 1988-89 323 (hydraulic type): 9.02-9.21 in. (229-234mm)
   • 1988-89 929: 8.46-8.66 in. (215-220mm)

4. After adjustment, tighten the locknut.

Clutch pedal height adjustment-hydraulic type

Clutch pedal adjustment-cable type

FREE-PLAY

1979-82 626

The free-play of the clutch pedal before the pushrod contacts the piston in the master cylinder should be 0.02-0.12 in. (0.50-3.00mm).

To adjust free-play, loosen the locknut and turn the pushrod until the proper adjustment is obtained. Tighten the locknut after the adjustment is complete.

GLC, MX-6, 929, RX-7 and 1983-89 626

CABLE CLUTCH

1. First, depress the clutch pedal and measure the distance between the pedal's normal height and the point at which the clutch begins to disengage (effort increases) in order to determine the free-play. The play should be:
   • GLC: 0.43-0.67 in. (11-17mm)
   • 626: 0.43-0.67 in. (11-17mm) for non-turbocharged models
   • 626: 0.20-0.51 in. (5-13mm) for turbocharged models

2. If play is incorrect, loosen the locknut on the clutch cable. Pull the release fork backward so as to create a clearance between the adjusting nut roller and fork. The clearance should be about 0.06-0.09 in. (1.5-2.3mm) for rear wheel drive vehicles or 0.08-0.12 in. (2-3mm) for front wheel drive vehicles. Adjust the nut if necessary, then recheck the adjustment at the pedal. When the adjustment is correct, tighten the locknut.

Common clutch free-play adjustment

3. If the adjustment is correct, the distance from the bottom of the pedal to the floor when the clutch is fully disengaged should be at least 3.19 in. (81mm).

HYDRAULIC CLUTCH

Loosen the locknut on the clutch master cylinder pushrod. Turn the pushrod to obtain free-play between the pedal and pushrod as specified below. Tighten the locknut on the pushrod when the adjustment is complete.

• GLC: 0.08-0.12 in. (2-3mm)
• 626/MX-6: 0.02-0.12 in. (0.6-3mm)
• 929: 0.02-0.12 in. (0.5-3mm)
• RX-7: 0.08-0.12 in. (2-3mm)

323

CABLE CLUTCH

Depress the pedal lightly and measure the free-play. Free-play should be 0.35-0.59 in. (9-15mm). If not within specification, adjust the free-play as follows:

1. On 1988-89 vehicles, depress the clutch pedal 7 times and straighten the clutch cable in the cable bracket.
2. Depress the release lever and pull the pin away from the lever. Then, adjust the clearance between the pin and the adjusting lever by turning the adjusting nut. On 1986-87 vehicles, the clearance should be between 0.06-0.10 in. (1.5-2.5mm). On 1988-89 vehicles, the clearance should be 0.08-0.12 in. (2-3mm).
3. After adjustment, ensure that when the clutch is disengaged, the distance between the floor and the upper center of the pedal is 3.3 in. (84mm).
4. Recheck the pedal height and adjust if necessary.

HYDRAULIC CLUTCH

Loosen the locknut on the clutch master cylinder pushrod. Turn the pushrod to obtain 0.2-0.5 in. (5-13mm) free-play between the pedal and the pushrod. Tighten the locknut on the pushrod when the adjustment is complete.

CLUTCH RELEASE CABLE

Rear Wheel Drive GLC

Loosen the locknut and put tension on the outer cable (pull, do not push) while turning the adjusting nut until the clearance shown in the illustration is 0.06-0.09 in. (1.5-2.3mm). Then, tighten the locknut.

Clutch release cable adjustment-GLC with rear wheel drive

Front Wheel Drive GLC

1. Loosen the locknut on the end of the clutch cable, near the release lever. (The release lever is mounted on top of the transaxle case.)
2. Turn the adjusting nut until the gap (clearance) between the roller on the cable and the release lever is 0.08-0.12 in. (2-3mm).

In order to get an accurate measurement, be sure to pull the roller toward the end of the cable while pushing the lever in the opposite direction.

3. Tighten the locknut.

Driven Disc and Pressure Plate

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Remove the transmission or transaxle, as detailed earlier in this section.
2. Attach a braking device to the flywheel (to keep it from turning during clutch cover removal and installation).
3. Temporarily install a clutch arbor to prevent the clutch cover from falling.

An old input shaft makes an excellent arbor.

4. Unfasten the bolts which secure the clutch cover/pressure plate, one turn at a time in sequence, until the clutch spring tension is released. Do not remove the bolts on at a time.
5. Remove the clutch disc and arbor.

Be careful not to get grease or oil on the surface of the clutch disc.

6. Unhook the return spring from the throwout (release) bearing and remove the bearing.
7. Pull out the release fork until its retaining spring frees itself from the ball stud. Withdraw the fork from the housing.

Unfasten and remove the transaxle's clutch housing from the engine

A clutch arbor will keep the clutch and pressure plate assembly aligned during removal or installation

Unfasten and remove its retaining bolts...

... then remove the clutch cover

The clutch disc is positioned against the flywheel

Remove the clutch disc from the flywheel

The throwout bearing and release fork surround the input shaft in the clutch housing

Remove the throwout bearing from the release fork

Common clutch components

RX-7 clutch components; other hydraulic systems are similar

To install:

8. Clean the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces with fine emery paper. Be sure that there is no oil or grease on them.
9. Use an arbor to center the clutch disc during installation. Install the clutch disc with the long end of its hub facing the transmission/transaxle.

Use an old input shaft to center the clutch disc, if an arbor is not available.

10. Align the O-mark on the clutch cover with the reamed hole of the O-mark on the flywheel.
11. Tighten the clutch cover bolts, using 2-3 passes of a crisscross pattern, to 13-20 ft. lbs. (18-27 Nm). Remove the arbor/input shaft and flywheel braking device.
12. Grease the pivot pin. Insert the release fork through its boot so that its retaining spring contacts the pivot pin.
13. Lightly grease the face of the throwout bearing and its clutch housing retainer.
14. Install the throwout bearing and return spring. Check the operation of the release fork and throwout bearing for smoothness.
15. Install the transmission or transaxle.

Clutch Master Cylinder

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. On 1988-89 626 and MX-6 equipped with ABS, remove the ABS relay box located forward of the brake power booster on the driver's side. Unfasten the hydraulic line from the master cylinder outlet. On 1988-89 turbocharged 626/MX-6s and on all 929s, disconnect the line from the banjo fitting, leave the union fitting connected to the master cylinder.
2. Remove the nuts which secure the master cylinder assembly to the firewall. On some vehicles one or both of these nuts are accessible from the inside of the cabin.
3. Withdraw the master cylinder and gasket straight out; away from the firewall. Inspect the gasket. If it is still in good condition use it again, otherwise a new gasket must be used during installation.

Clutch master cylinder-1988-89 626 and MX-6

Clutch master cylinder-929

Clutch master cylinder-RX-7

To install:

4. Place the gasket and the master cylinder onto the firewall and attach with the nuts. Connect the line to the outlet connection. On 1988-89 626/MX-6s with ABS, install the ABS relay box.
5. Bleed the hydraulic system as detailed below.

OVERHAUL

6. Thoroughly clean the outside of the master cylinder.
7. Drain the hydraulic fluid from the cylinder. Unbolt the reservoir from the cylinder body. If equipped with banjo fittings, loosen the union bolt, then remove the fitting and gaskets from the body of the master cylinder. Discard the old gaskets.
8. Remove the boot from the cylinder.
9. Release the wire piston stop with a screwdriver and withdraw the stop washer.
10. Withdraw the piston, piston cups, and return spring from the cylinder bore.
11. Wash all the parts in clean hydraulic (brake) fluid.

Exploded view of a common clutch master cylinder

12. Examine the piston cups. If they are damaged, softened, or swollen, replace them with new ones.
13. Check the piston and bore for scoring or roughness.
14. Use a wire gauge to check the clearance between the piston and its bore. Replace either the piston or the cylinder if the clearance is greater than 0.006 in. (0.15mm).
15. Be sure that the compensating port in the cylinder is not clogged.

To assemble:

16. Dip the piston and cups in clean hydraulic (brake) fluid.
17. Bolt the reservoir up to the cylinder body.
18. Fit the return spring into the cylinder.
19. Insert the primary cup into the bore so that its flat side is facing the piston.
20. Place the secondary cup on the piston and insert them in the cylinder bore.
21. Install the stop washer and the wire piston stop.
22. Fill the reservoir half-full of hydraulic fluid. Operate the piston with a screwdriver until fluid spurts out of the cylinder outlet. Install the banjo fittings with new gaskets. Leave the union bolt snug until such time as the master cylinder is in place on the firewall this way you can move the fitting up and down to align fluid line.
23. Fit the boot on the cylinder.

Clutch Release Cylinder (Slave Cylinder)

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Raise the vehicle and safely support with jackstands.
2. Unscrew the hydraulic line from the release cylinder.
3. Unhook the release fork return spring from the cylinder.
4. Unfasten the nuts which secure the release cylinder to the transmission/transaxle.
5. Installation is performed in the reverse order of removal. Bleed the hydraulic system as detailed below, and adjust the release fork free-play as previously described.

OVERHAUL

6. Thoroughly clean the outside of the cylinder body.
7. Drain the hydraulic fluid from the cylinder.
8. Remove the boot from the cylinder.
9. Release the wire piston stop with a screwdriver and withdraw the stop washer.
10. Withdraw the piston, piston cups, and return spring from the cylinder bore.
11. Wash all the parts in clean hydraulic (brake) fluid.

Exploded view of a common clutch slave cylinder

12. Examine the piston cups. If they are damaged, softened, or swollen, replace them with new ones.
13. Check the piston and bore for scoring or roughness.
14. Use a wire gauge to check the clearance between the piston and its bore. Replace either the piston or the cylinder if the clearance is greater than 0.006 in. (0.15mm).

To assemble:

15. Dip the piston and cups in clean hydraulic (brake) fluid.
16. Fit the return spring into the cylinder.
17. Insert the primary cup into the bore so that its flat side is facing the piston.
18. Place the secondary cup on the piston and insert them in the cylinder bore.
19. Install the stop washer and the wire piston stop.
20. Fit the boot on the cylinder.

HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING

21. Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder screw on the release cylinder.
22. Place a bleeder tube over the end of the bleeder screw.
23. Submerge the other end of the tube in a jar half-filled with hydraulic (brake) fluid.

Bleeding the hydraulic clutch system

24. Depress the clutch pedal fully and allow it to return slowly.
25. Keep repeating Step 4 while watching the hydraulic fluid in the jar. As soon as the air bubbles disappear, close the bleeder screw.

During the bleeding procedure, the reservoir must be kept at least ³/₄ full.

26. Remove the tube and refit the rubber cap. Fill the reservoir with hydraulic fluid.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.