Coil spring removal and installation is covered later in this
section under "MacPherson Struts".
Shock Absorbers
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Shock absorber removal and installation is covered later in this
section under strut overhaul procedures. Two types of shock absorbs are used:
the sealed cartridge and the open oil type.
Exploded view of common MacPherson strut on rear wheel
drive vehicles
MacPherson strut front suspension-1988-89
323
MacPherson strut front suspension-GLC rear wheel drive
models
Exploded view of a front strut-1983-85
GLC
Exploded view of a front strut-1983-89
626
MacPherson strut front
suspension-RX-7
TESTING
This test can be done without removing the shock absorber from the
vehicle.
Visually inspect the shock absorber for evidence of leakage. If an
excessive amount of oil is found, the shock is defective and must be replaced.
If there is no sign of excessive leakage (a small amount of
weeping is normal) bounce the car at one corner by pressing up and down on the
fender or bumper. When you have the car bouncing as much as possible, step back
and count how many times the car bounces by itself until it stops. It should
stop bouncing after the first rebound. If it continues to bounce past the center
point of its up-and-down motion more than once, the shock absorbers are worn and
should be replaced.
MacPherson Struts
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Except RX-7, 929 and 1988-89 323, 626 and MX-6
Remove the wheel cover and loosen the lug nuts.
Raise the front of the vehicle and support it with jackstands. Do not jack
it or support it by any of the front suspension members. Remove the wheel.
On rear wheel drive models, remove the caliper and disc as described in
Section 9.
Support the strut from underneath, then unfasten the nuts which secure the
upper shock mount to the top of the wheel arch. Disconnect the brake line from
the strut.
From inside the engine compartment, unfasten the nuts
which secure the upper shock mount
Use two wrenches to loosen the bolts which secure the
lower end of the shock absorber assembly
Remove the nuts, washers and bolts
...
... then separate the shock absorber from the steering
knuckle arm
Remove the two bolts that secure the lower end of the shock to the
steering knuckle arm.
Remove the shock and coil spring as a complete assembly.
Mount the strut (shock/spring) assembly in a vise. Protect the shock tube
by placing a piece of soft metal on either side between the tube and vice
jaws. Compress the coil spring with a spring compressor.
Hold the upper end of the shock piston rod with a pipe wrench and unfasten
the locknut.
Remove the parts from the top of the shock absorber in the order shown in
the appropriate illustration.
CAUTION
When removing the spring compressor from the coil
spring, do so gradually so that spring tension is not released all at
once.
During installation, tighten the nut on top of the piston rod to 10 ft.
lbs. (14 Nm) on most rear wheel drive models. On GLCs with front wheel drive
and 1979-82 626s, torque the piston rod nut to 47-59 ft. lbs. (64-80 Nm). On
front wheel drive GLCs and 323s, torque the piston rod nut to 41-49 ft. lbs.
(56-66 Nm), and the mounting block-to-suspension tower to 17-21 ft. lbs.
(23-28 Nm). On 1983-87 626s, torque the piston rod nut to 47-59 ft. lbs.
(64-80 Nm), the mounting block-to-suspension tower nuts to 16-21 ft. lbs.
(21-28 Nm), and the lower strut bolts to 69-86 ft. lbs. (93-117 Nm).
On 1983-87 front wheel drive models, there is a mark or hole in
the mounting block. Be sure it faces the inside of the vehicle when positioning
the block.
If a new coil spring is being fitted, match it with an
adjusting plate of the correct thickness to obtain equal road clearance on both
sides. Do not use more than two adjusting plates on a side.
1988-89 323
Loosen the front lug nuts, then raise the front of the vehicle and support
it safely. Remove the front wheels.
On vehicles equipped with Adjustable Shock Absorbers (ASA), peel the
rubber cap from the ASA actuating unit to expose the retaining screws.
Disengage the electrical connector from the actuating unit. Loosen the
retaining screws and remove the actuating unit from the mounting block.
Remove the nuts from the strut mounting block. Remove the brake line clip
and separate the brake line from the strut tower mounting tab. Position the
brake line off to the side.
Remove the two bolts from the shock tower mounting bracket and remove the
strut assembly.
To install, position the strut assembly onto the suspension tower so that
the white dot on the mounting block faces toward the inside of the vehicle.
Maneuver the shock tower mounting bracket onto the steering knuckle and insert
the two bolts. Install the mounting block nuts and make them finger-tight.
Torque the shock tower mounting bolts to 69-86 ft. lbs. (93-117 Nm). Place the
brake line into the mounting tab on the shock tower and push the brake line
clip to hold it in place. Torque the mounting block nuts to 22-27 ft. lbs.
(30-37 Nm).
On ASA equipped vehicles, place the actuating unit onto the mounting block
and install the retaining screws. Torque the retaining screws to 14-21 ft.
lbs. (19-28 Nm). Fasten the electrical connector and install the rubber cap.
Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
1988-89 626 and MX-6
Loosen the front lug nuts, then raise the front of the vehicle and support
it safely. Remove the front wheels.
Remove the brake line clip and separate the brake line from the strut
tower mounting tab. Position the brake line off to the side.
On vehicles equipped with ABS, use a long extension to remove the ABS
harness bracket bolt. Remove the harness and bracket, then position them off
to the side and out the way. On vehicles equipped with Auto Adjusting
Suspension (AAS), peel the rubber cap from the AAS actuating unit to expose
the retaining screws. Disengage the electrical connector from the actuating
unit. Loosen the retaining screws and remove the actuating unit from the
mounting block.
Remove the two nuts and one bolt and remove the ignition coil bracket from
the mounting block studs. Remove the lower clinch bolts and mounting block
nuts. Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle. Remove the adjust plate from
the mounting block.
To install:
Place the adjusting plate on the mounting block. Position the strut
assembly onto the suspension tower so that the white dot on the mounting block
faces the towards the inside of the vehicle. Maneuver the shock tower mounting
bracket onto the steering knuckle and insert the two bolts. Install the
mounting block nuts and make them finger-tight. Torque the shock tower
mounting bolts and the mounting block nuts to 69-86 ft. lbs. (93-117 Nm).
Connect the ignition coil bracket to the mounting block. On AAS equipped
vehicles, place the actuating unit onto the mounting block and install the
retaining screws. Torque the retaining screws to 14-21 ft. lbs. (19-28 Nm).
Engage the electrical connector and install the rubber cap. On ABS equipped
vehicles, connect the ABS harness and bracket to the shock tower, then torque
the mounting bolt to 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm).
Place the brake line into the mounting tab on the shock tower and push the
brake line clip to hold it in place. Install the front wheels and lower the
vehicle.
929
Loosen the front lug nuts, then raise the front of the vehicle and support
it safely. Remove the front wheels.
Remove the brake line clip and separate the brake line from the strut
tower mounting tab. Position the brake line off to the side.
On vehicles equipped with Auto Adjusting Suspension (AAS), remove the AAS
harness bracket bolt. Remove the harness and bracket, then position them off
to the side and out the way. Disengage the electrical connector from the AAS
actuating unit. Peel the rubber cap from the AAS actuating unit.
Remove the lower clinch bolts and mounting block nuts. Remove the strut
assembly from the vehicle.
To install, position the strut assembly onto the suspension tower so that
the white dot on the mounting block faces the towards the inside of the
vehicle. Maneuver the shock tower mounting bracket onto the steering knuckle
and insert the two bolts. Install the mounting block nuts and make them
finger-tight. Torque the shock tower mounting bolts to 69-86 ft. lbs. (93-117
Nm) and the mounting block nuts to 23-33 ft. lbs. (31-45 Nm).
On AAS equipped vehicles, engage the electrical connector and install the
rubber cap. Connect the AAS harness and bracket to the shock tower, then
torque the mounting bolt to 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm).
Place the brake line into the mounting tab on the shock tower and push the
brake line clip to hold it in place. Install the front wheels and lower the
vehicle.
RX-7
The RX-7 uses a strut-type front suspension in which shock
absorber and coil spring are mounted on a rotating strut. (This assembly takes
the place of the conventional upper arm and ball joint.) The strut is fastened
to the upper inside fender well and to the lower arm. The front suspension is
equipped with both tension rods and a stabilizer bar.
Raise the front of the car and support it safely
Remove the front wheel, brake caliper and rotor assembly (see
Section 9).
On 1979-85 models, remove the brake backing plate. Remove the brake fluid
hose attaching clip on the strut and remove the two bolts attaching the strut
to the steering knuckle/lower arm assembly.
Note the location of the triangular mark before
removing the strut
Open the engine compartment and note the position of a triangular mark on
the top of the strut (it must be installed in the same location it is now
facing). On 1986-89 models, there is white dot painted on the mounting block
instead of a triangle. During installation, the dot must face towards the
front inside of the engine.
On 1979-85 models, after installing the strut, measure the distance from
the ground to the center of each headlight. If the distance on each side is
not within 0.59 in. (15mm) of the other side, adjust the height with adjusting
plates available from your local Mazda dealer. Do not use more than two
adjusting plates on each side.
Tighten the upper strut attaching nuts to 17-22 ft. lbs. (23-30 Nm) and
the knuckle arm to strut bolts to 43-51 ft. lbs. (58-69 Nm).
OVERHAUL
Strut overhaul includes removal and installation of both the
coil spring and shock absorber.
Remove the strut from the vehicle, as previously described. Loosen but DO
NOT remove the center attaching nut at the top of the strut.
Hold the strut in a protected jaw vise and compress the coil spring using
a suitable spring compressor.
Remove the lock nut and washer from the top of the strut, then remove the
mounting block and adjusting plate, the seat, thrust bearing and spring seat.
Remove the coil spring, the shock absorber dust boot and the rebound
bumper.
To test the shock absorber, hold the strut in its upright position and
work the piston rod up and down its full length of travel four or five times.
If a strong resistance is felt, the shock absorber is functioning properly. If
the resistance is not strong, or if there is a sudden lack of resistance, the
shock absorber is defective and should be replaced. If the outside of the
strut is covered with shock oil the absorber should be replaced.
Hold the strut body in a vise, then remove the cap nut cover and the cap
nut. Mazda makes a special socket (tool number 49-0259-700A) to remove the cap
nut.
Remove the O-ring on the piston rod guide.
Remove the inner shock absorber assembly from the strut tube.
Check all strut components for wear, and check the coil spring for cracks.
Check the shock absorber seal for damage. Drain and clean the strut.
Assembly is essentially the reverse of disassembly. Observe the following.
Cartridge shock absorbers are available as replacements for the
open oil type.
If open oil type shock absorbers are used:
Install the shock piston and fill the reservoir with 225cc of fresh
shock absorber fluid.
Install the special pilot (tool number 49-0370-590) or some other
protector over the threads of the shock absorber plunger rod ( in order to
protect the oil seal in the cap nut), grease the seal and install the cap
nut carefully onto the strut.
Tighten the cap nut temporarily with the plunger rod extended as far as
it will go. Make sure the rod is not binding.
Fully lower the piston rod and tighten the cap nut to 36-43 ft. lbs.
(49-58 Nm) with nut wrench (tool number 49 0259 700A).
On cartridge type shock absorbers, tighten the cap nut to 58-108 ft. lbs.
(79-146 Nm) with nut wrench tool number 49-0259-700A.
Apply rubber grease to the upper strut thrust bearing.
Ball Joints
Ball joints are pressed into the lower control arms and cannot
be removed. In the event of a defective ball joint, the lower control arm and
ball joint must be replaced as an assembly.
Defective ball joints are determined by checking the rotational
torque with a special preload attachment and spring scale. Torn ball joint dust
boots can be replaced. Replacement of the ball joint dust boot is accomplished
by removing the lower control arm from the vehicle and chiseling off the old
boot. Coat the inside of the new dust boot with lithium grease and press it into
the ball joint using the proper tool. Check the ball joint stud threads for
damage and repair as necessary. Check the ball joint preload and install the
lower control arm by reversing the removal procedure. Please refer to the Lower
Control Arm Removal and Installation procedure in this section.
Measuring ball joint preload using a special attachment
and spring scale
INSPECTION
Rear Wheel Drive GLC and 1979-82 626
Check the dust boot for wear or cracks, and replace if necessary.
Raise the vehicle until the wheel is off the ground. Grab the tire at top
and bottom, then alternately pull it toward you and push it away to check for
ball joint end-play. Wear limit is 0.04 in. (1mm). If necessary, replace ball
joint and control arm assembly. See control arm removal and installation
procedure above. When installing ball joint nut, torque to 43-51 ft. lbs.
(58-69 Nm) on the GLC and 46-69 ft. lbs. (62-93 Nm) on the 626.
Front Wheel Drive GLC
Raise the vehicle and support it securely. Remove the front wheel.
Unbolt the ball joint where it connects to the lower arm. Put the hook of
a spring scale in the outer bolt hole. Turn the ball joint back and forth
several times and then measure the rotating torque on the spring scale. Turn
the joint slowly and make sure the scale stays at 90 degrees to the joint
lever. Rotating torque should be 6.3-10.9 lbs. Otherwise, replace the ball
joint.
323, MX-6, 929 and RX-7; 1983-89 626
This procedure is usually done with a preload attachment tool,
such as Mazda No. 49-0180-510B or equivalent . Do not attempt to make this test
without the proper tool.
Raise and support the vehicle safely. Remove the wheel.
Remove the cotter pin and nut (which secure the tie-rod end) from the
knuckle arm, then use a puller to separate the tie-rod from the knuckle.
Unbolt the lower end of the shock absorber.
Remove the nut, then withdraw the rubber bushing and washer which secure
the stabilizer bar to the control arm.
Unfasten the nut and bolt which secure the control arm to the frame
member.
Check the ball joint dust boot for cracks and tears. Replace as necessary.
Shake the ball joint stud a couple of times before measuring the preload.
Check the amount of pressure required to turn the ball stud, by hooking a pull
scale into the tie rod hole in the knuckle arm. Pull the spring scale until
the arm just begins to turn, this should require 4.4-7.7 lbs. on the 626, MX6
and 1986-89 RX-7, 1-2.2 lbs. on the 1986-87 323, 4.0-6.8 lbs. on 1988-89 323
and 1.1-2.6 lbs. on the 929. If the reading is lower than 1.2 lbs. on the
1979-85 RX7, replace the ball joint and the suspension arm as a unit.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Rear Wheel Drive GLC and 1979-82 626
Refer to the Control Arm removal and installation procedure. When
installing the ball joint nut, torque it to 43-51 ft. lbs. (58-69 Nm) on the GLC
or 46-69 ft. lbs. (62-93 Nm) on the 626.
Front Wheel Drive GLC
Raise the vehicle and support it securely by the front crossmember. Remove
the front wheel.
Remove the pinch bolt and nut from the bottom of the strut. Pull the ball
stud out.
Remove the two bolts attaching the joint lever to the lower control arm,
and remove the assembly.
Install in reverse order. Check and adjust front end alignment, if
necessary.
323, MX-6, 929 and RX-7; 1983-89 626
See the following procedure for lower control arm removal and
installation. If the ball joint is defective, the control arm and joint are
replaced as an assembly.
Control Arm
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Rear Wheel Drive GLC and 626, 929 and RX-7
Loosen the front lug nuts, then raise the front of the vehicle and support
it safely. Remove the front wheels.
Remove the brake line clip and separate the brake line from the strut
tower mounting tab. Position the brake line off to the side.
Remove the cotter pin and nut (which secure the tie-rod end) from the
knuckle arm, then use a puller to separate the tie-rod from the knuckle.
Unfasten the bolts which secure the lower end of the shock absorber to the
knuckle arm.
Remove the nut then withdraw the rubber bushing and washer which secure
the stabilizer bar to the control arm.
Exploded view of the control arm mounting-GLC rear
wheel drive models
Unfasten the nut and bolt which secure the control arm to the frame
member.
Push outward on the strut assembly while removing the end of the control
arm from the frame member.
Remove the control arm and steering knuckle arm as an assembly.
Install the assembly in a vise. Remove its cotter pin and unfasten the
ball joint nut; then separate the knuckle arm from the control arm with a
puller.
Installation of the control arm is performed in the reverse order of its
removal. Torque the control arm-to-crossmember nut and bolt to 29-40 ft. lbs.
(39-54 Nm).
1981-82 Front Wheel Drive GLC
Loosen the wheel lugs, raise the car and safely support it on jackstands.
Remove the front wheel.
Remove the through-bolt connecting the lower arm to the steering knuckle.
Remove the bolts and nuts mounting the control arm to the body (two inner
and three outer).
Remove the lower control arm.
Installation is the reverse order of removal. Mounting Torque:
Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle: 32-40 ft. lbs. (43-54 Nm)
Outer Bolts: 43-54 ft. lbs. (58-73 Nm)
Inner Bolts: 69-86 ft. lbs. (93-117 Nm)
1983-85 Front Wheel Drive GLC
Support the vehicle front end via the crossmember on axle stands.
Remove the two bolts which fasten the ball joint to the lower arm.
Now, remove the two bolts attaching the rear of the lower arm to the body,
and the three connecting the front of the lower arm to the body.
To install, reverse the removal procedure, torquing the front three bolts
mounting the unit to the body to 69-86 ft. lbs. (93-117 Nm), and rear body
bracket bolts to 43-54 ft. lbs. (58-73 Nm), and the knuckle to arm bolts to
32-40 ft. lbs. (43-54 Nm).
1983-89 626 and MX-6
Support the front of the vehicle via the crossmember on safety stands.
Remove the splash shield from the side on which you'll be working.
Remove the two locknuts, washers, bushings, bolt and spacer that link the
stabilizer bar to the lower arm. Keep the parts in order.
Remove the pinch bolt and nut, then remove the stem of the ball joint from
the strut.
Remove the nuts, washers, and bolts which fasten the inner two hinge
joints of the arm to the body, then remove the arm.
For installation, reverse the above procedures, but wait for final
tightening of the two hinge bolts linking the arm to the body until all parts
are assembled, the other parts are torqued, and the weight of the car can rest
on the wheel. Torque the hinge bolts fastening the arm to the body to 69-93
ft. lbs. at this point. Torque the pinch bolt for the ball joint to 32-39
ft.lb (1983-87) and 27-40 ft. lbs. (1988-89).
1986-89 323
Jack up the front of the vehicle and support it with jackstands.
Remove the wheel and splash shield. Remove the nut, bolt, bushings and
retainers that secure the stabilizer bar to the lower control arm.
Remove the pinch bolt and nut, then separate the ball joint from the
steering knuckle.
Remove the nuts, washers, and bolts which fasten the inner two hinge
joints of the arm to the body, then remove the arm.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Torque the lower arm
mounting bolt to 66-86 ft. lbs. (89-117 Nm).
929
Loosen the front wheel lug nuts. Raise the front of the vehicle and
support safely. Remove the front wheels.
Remove the nut, retainer and rubber bushing from the lower control arm
through-bolt and lift the stabilizer bar from the bolt. Remove the bolt spacer
and remove the bolt from the lower control arm with the remaining bushings and
retainers. Keep all parts in order.
Remove the cotter pin and pinch bolt and nut, then separate the tie rod
end from the compression rod.
Disconnect and remove the compression rod from the lower control arm by
removing the three nuts and bolts.
Remove the pinch bolt and nut, then separate the ball joint from the
knuckle arm. Remove the lower control arm. Service the ball joint dust boot at
this time. Press the old rubber bushing from the arm and press a new bushing
in using special tools 49-HO34-202 and 49-HO34-201.
To install:
Maneuver the lower control arm into position, then install the retaining
bolt through the bushing and install the nut. Torque the bolt to 54-69 ft.
lbs. (73-93 Nm).
Connect the knuckle arm to the ball joint and the steering knuckle. Torque
the ball joint pinch bolt to 69-91 ft. lbs.
Connect the compression rod to the lower control arm with the three nuts
and bolts. Connect the tie rod end to the compression rod and secure with
pinch nut. Torque the tie rod pinch nut to 69-91 ft. lbs.
From underneath the control arm insert the through-bolt with spacer,
rubber bushings and retainers in the proper order. Connect the stabilizer bar
to the end of the bolt and install the remaining rubber bushings and
retainers. Install and tighten the stabilizer bar nut.
Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Tighten the front wheel
lug nuts.
1979-85 RX-7
The lower control arm and ball joint are replaced as an
assembly.
Jack the front of the vehicle and support it. Remove the front wheels.
Remove the two lower strut to steering knuckle bolts.
Disconnect the tie-rod end at the steering knuckle by removing its cotter
pin and castle nut, then breaking it free with either a puller or a ball joint
removal tool.
Disconnect the stabilizer bar and the tension rod from the control arm.
Remove the nut attaching the steering knuckle arm to the lower control arm
and disconnect the knuckle arm using a suitable puller.
Remove the control arm-to-crossmember attaching bolt and remove the
control arm.
Check the control arm and steering knuckle arm for deformities and cracks,
check the control arm bushings for damage. New bushings can be pressed into
the control arm.
If the ball joint dust covers are ripped, but the ball joint itself is
still good, remove the dust boot retaining ring with a drift and remove the
dust boot. Fill the new dust boot with lithium grease and install it on the
ball joint. Press the retaining ring into place using a large socket and a
vise.
Install the control arm in the reverse order of removal, noting the
following: when installing the control arm to crossmember attaching bolt,
tighten it finger-tight until the whole assembly is installed, then lower the
car and jounce it a few times to settle the bushing, then tighten the bolt to
29-40 ft. lbs. (39-54 Nm). Tighten the ball joint-to-knuckle arm nut to 43-51
ft. lbs. (58-69 Nm), tighten the knuckle arm to strut bolts to 43-51 ft. lbs.
(58-69 Nm) and tighten the tension rod to control arm fastener to 40-50 ft.
lbs.
1986-89 RX-7
Jack the front of the vehicle and support it safely. Remove the front
wheels.
Disconnect the stabilizer bar from the control link by removing the nut
and bolt.
Remove the bolt that attaches the control link to the control arm.
Disconnect the control link from the control arm.
Remove the control arm-to-steering knuckle bolt. Remove the bolts that
attach the control arm to the frame. Remove the control bushing through-bolt.
Remove the lower control arm. Service the ball joint dust boot at this
time. If the ball joint is defective, replace the lower control arm.
To install, maneuver the lower control arm into position, then insert the
control bushing through-bolt and make the nut hand-tight. Install the frame,
steering knuckle and control link attaching bolts. Tighten all the bolts and
nuts properly.
Connect the stabilizer bar to the control link and tighten the bolt.
Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
Tension Rod and Stabilizer Bar
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1979-82 626
Raise the vehicle and support it safely.
Remove the tension rod attaching nuts from the suspension arm.
Remove the nuts, washers and rubber bushings holding the tension rod to
the bracket, then remove the tension rod.
Remove the control rod assembly.
Remove the stabilizer bar support plate and bushings.
Install the stabilizer bar bushings and support plate. When installing the
stabilizer bushing with the support plate, place the open end of the bushing
toward the front.
Install the control rod assembly.
Install the tension rod and bracket with bushings and washers.
Install the tension rod attaching nuts to the suspension arm.
Lower the vehicle.
1983-85 GLC
Raise the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands. On both sides,
unlock the two locknuts and remove the washers, bushings, spacer and bolt that
fastens the sway bar to the front suspension. Keep all parts in order.
Now, on either side, remove the two machine screws which fasten the sway
bar bushing to the body via a U-shaped clip, and remove the clip. The bar will
now be released and can be removed.
To install, the removal procedure should be reversed. Torque the nuts
linking the bar to the suspension arm until 0.24 in. (6mm) of bare thread is
exposed.
1983-89 626, MX-6 and 929
Raise the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the engine under cover on 929.
On both sides, unlock the two locknuts and remove the washers, bushings,
spacer and bolt that fastens the sway bar to the front suspension. Keep all
parts in order.
Now, on either side, remove the two machine screws which fasten the sway
bar bushing to the body via a U-shaped clip, and remove the clip. The bar will
now be released and can be removed.
Align the bushing with the line on the bar, so slit
faces rearward-626/MX-6 shown; 929 similar
Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the nuts linking the bar
to the suspension arm until 0.24 in. (6mm) of bare thread is exposed. Torque
the machine screws which fasten the U-shaped clip and bushing to the body to
32-39 ft. lbs. for 1983-87 626s, 27-40 ft. lbs. for 1988-89 626/MX-6s and
37-45 ft. lbs. for 929s. Also, when assembling the U-shaped rubber bushings to
the bar, align the bushing with the line on the bar and install it so the slit
faces the rear of the car. On 929s, this line is yellow. Tighten the locknuts
on top of the bolt linking the sway bar to the steering knuckle until 0.98 in.
(25mm) of bare thread is exposed for 1983-87 626s, 0.71-0.91 in. (18-23mm) for
1988-89 626/MX-6s and 0.59 (15mm) for 929s.
1986-89 323
Raise the vehicle and support it safely. On 1988-89 323s, remove the
engine under cover.
Remove the two locknuts, washers, bushings, bolt and spacer that link the
stabilizer bar to the lower arm. Keep the parts in order.
Remove the nuts, washers, rubber bushings and bracket holding the
stabilizer bar to frame and remove the stabilizer bar.
Inspect the stabilizer bar for damage such as bends, cracks, or metal
deterioration. Inspect the bushings for signs of wear or deterioration and
replace as necessary.
To install, mount the bushings so that the seam faces the rear of the
chassis.
Mount the bracket side of the stabilizer first and temporarily tighten it.
After mounting the control link side, tighten to the specified torque with the
vehicle in the unloaded condition.
Tighten the stabilizer bar bushing and bracket bolts to 23-34 ft. lbs.
(31-46 Nm).
On 1986-87 323s, tighten the bushing to control arm nut so that there is
0.43 in. (11mm) of thread exposed at the top of the control link. On 1988-89
models, the control link stud has two sets of nuts on each side. Torque each
top nut to 9-13 ft. lbs.
1979-85 RX-7
Raise the front of the vehicle and support it on jackstands.
Remove the engine gravel shield.
Unfasten the tension rod attaching nuts and remove the tension rod.
Disconnect both ends of the stabilizer bar from the control links.
Remove the stabilizer bar support plates and rubber bushings.
Remove the right and left brackets which mount tension rods and stabilizer
bar to the body, then remove the stabilizer.
Install the stabilizer bar brackets (with the stabilizer bar in them) to
the body and tighten the attaching nuts.
Install both ends of the stabilizer bar to the control links and tighten
the nuts so that 0.51 in. (13mm) of the bolt threads protrude from above the
nut as shown in the illustration.
Install the stabilizer bar ends as shown-1979-85
RX-7
Install the tension rod ends as shown-1979-85
RX-7
Install the stabilizer bar rubber bushings and support plates so that the
open end of the bushing is positioned toward the front of the car. Tighten the
support plate attaching bolts temporarily.
Install the front ends of the tension rods to the brackets and tighten nut
Ain the illustration so that 0.28 in. (7mm) of threads protrude above
the nut. Then tighten nut Bto 80-108 ft. lbs. Make sure you install the
rubber bushings as shown in the illustration.
Install the rear of the tension rods to the control arms and tighten the
nuts to 40-50 ft. lbs.
Lower the vehicle and jounce it a few times, then tighten the support
plates of the stabilizer bar.
1986-89 RX-7
This procedure covers removal and installation of the control
link also.
Raise the front of the vehicle and support it safely.
Remove the stabilizer U-bracket bolts, then remove the bracket and the
rubber bushings.
Disconnect the stabilizer bar from the control link by removing the bolt,
nut and washer. Remove the stabilizer bar.
Remove the bolt that attaches the control link to the control arm.
Disconnect the control link from the control arm and remove it.
Inspect the stabilizer bar and control link for damage such as bends,
cracks, or metal deterioration. Inspect the bushings for signs of wear or
deterioration and replace as necessary.
Assemble the U-brackets and bushings onto the stabilizer bar so the
bushing seams face the front. Slide the bushings on the bar so that the edges
are aligned with the white lines as shown. Install the stabilizer bar and
temporarily tighten the bracket bolts. Install the control link to the
stabilizer bar and temporarily tighten the bolt.
Lower the vehicle and tighten the bracket bolts to 13-20 ft. lbs. and the
control link bolt to 27-37 ft. lbs.
Stabilizer bushing installation-1986-89
RX-7
Front Wheel Bearings
For front wheel bearing service on rear wheel drive vehicles, see
"Rear Axle; Axle Shaft, Bearing and Seal".
Front Hub and Bearing
The following procedures apply only to FWD vehicles.
REPLACEMENT
1981-85 GLC (Except Wagon)
This procedure requires many special tools. Check on the
availability of these before starting. It may be cheaper for you to have some
aspects of the work done professionally than to buy certain tools.
Follow the necessary steps of the disc brake rotor removal &
installation procedure, as described in Section 9 of this
manual, in order to remove the rotor from the hub.
Arrange the bearing remover (Mazda tool No. 49-F401-365 or equivalent) and
attachment B (49-F401-368 or equivalent) as shown and, with a press, remove
the outer bearing's inner race. Make sure the hub does not fall and get
damaged.
Use a brass drift and a hammer to strike the edge of the outer race and
remove it. Tap all around the race, forcing it out in small increments.
Wash parts in solvent before inspecting. Inspect the knuckle for damage,
rust in the bearing bore, or a bad dust cover or seal.
If the dust cover must be replaced, tap it in place with a hammer and a
pipe of 3.19 in. (81mm) in diameter. Make sure the dust cover is properly
positioned.
Fit the bearing outer race into the knuckle with a brass rod and hammer.
Make sure it seats in the knuckle.
Check the bearing preload by installing a spacer selector (Mazda tool No.
49-B001-727 or equivalent) in a vise and assembling to it the steering knuckle
along with the original spacer. Bearing preload (the torque required to start
it turning) should be 1.7-6.9 inch lbs (0.2-0.8 Nm). This is equivalent to
0.5-1.9 lbs. measured by a spring scale at the caliper mounting hole of the
knuckle. The tool must be tightened to 145 ft. lbs. in 36 ft. lb. increments.
As each increment is completed, rotate the bearing to seat it properly, make
sure it turns smoothly, then repeat the tightening operation until 145 ft.
lbs. is reached. Make sure you again turn the bearing to seat it before
reading the preload.
If the preload is outside specifications, increase the thickness of the
spacer to decrease it if it is too high; decrease the thickness of the spacer
to increase the preload if it is too low. There is a mark stamped on the outer
periphery of the spacer that represents its thickness (see the table). A
change in thickness of one number changes the preload 1.7-3.5 inch lbs.
(0.2-0.4 Nm).
Substitute a new spacer, and repeat the preload measuring procedure until
the preload meets specification.
Apply grease to the lip of a new outer oil seal and gently tap it in with
a plastic hammer. Make sure the surface is flush with the knuckle when it's
installed.
In the same way, but using an appropriate installer (Mazda tool No. is 49
B001 795) install a new inner seal.
Fill these areas with lithium grease meeting NGLI No. 2 specification: the
spaces between the bearing rollers; the space between the inner and outer
bearings; the space between each bearing and the adjacent seal.
Using the spacer selector described above and a press, install the wheel
hub into the knuckle. This requires as much as 6,613 lbs. pressure.
Install the knuckle to the suspension system in reverse of the removal
procedure, using a new driveshaft locknut, and observing the following torque
figures:
Rotor-to-hub bolts: 33-39 ft. lbs.
Knuckle-to-strut bolts: 58-86 ft. lbs.
Knuckle-to-ball joint: 33-39 ft. lbs.
Lower arm-to-ball joint: 69-96 ft. lbs.
Knuckle and brake caliper: 41-48 ft. lbs.
Driveshaft locknut: 116-174 ft. lbs.
Knuckle-to-tie rod end: 28-32 ft. lbs.
Make sure to stake over the driveshaft locknut with a dull punch
until it is indented into the groove in the shaft at least 0.16 in. (4mm). Use a
new cotter pin for the tie rod end nut.
Spacer thickness selection chart-GLC and 1986-87
323
323, MX-6, and 1983-89 626
This procedure requires many special tools. Read the procedure
over first, and determine availability of the special tools before you start
work. In some cases, it may be less expensive to have certain operations
performed by a local repair shop than to purchase the appropriate tools.
Loosen the lug nuts. Raise the vehicle and support it safely. Remove the
tire and wheel.
Raise the staked tab from the hub center nut, remove the nut from the
axle. Apply the brake to help hold the rotor while loosening the nut.
Using ball joint puller tool 49-0118-850C or equivalent, separate the tie
rod end from the steering knuckle. Disconnect the horseshoe clip that retains
the brake line to the strut. On the 626 and MX6, remove the stabilizer bar
control link from the control arm as described previously in this section.
Remove the mounting bolts that hold the caliper assembly to the knuckle.
Do not allow the caliper to be supported by the brake hose; support it with
wire.
Remove the through-bolt and nut that retains the lower ball joint to the
steering knuckle and disconnect the ball joint.
Front hub, knuckle and bearing
assembly-323
Front hub, knuckle and bearing
assembly-626
Removing the outer front wheel bearing's inner
race-1983-87 626
Remove the two bolts and nuts retaining the strut to the steering knuckle.
Separate the steering knuckle and hub from the strut and axle shaft. On 626
and MX-6 with ABS, remove the speed sensor from the strut bracket.
The hub is pressed through the wheel bearings into the knuckle.
Removal/replacement of the hub requires wheel hub puller tool No.
49-G030-725/49-G030-727 (or equivalent) for the 1983-87 626 and 323, or Nos.
G49-G033-102, 104 and 105 (or equivalent) for 1988-89 626 and MX-6.
On 1988-89 626 and MX-6, if there is an inner race on the front
wheel hub, grind or machine a section of the bearing inner race to approximately
0.02 in. (0.5mm) and remove it with a small cold chisel.
Remove the inner oil seal and bearing. Remove the outer bearing using a
press and tool 49-G030-725/49-G030-728 for the 1983-87 626 and 323 in order to
remove the bearing from the steering knuckle. Drive the outer and inner race
from the knuckle with a brass drift and hammer. On 1988-89 323, remove the
outer bearing race with tools 49-B092-372 and 49-F401-366A and then withdraw
the outer oil seal from the front hub. On 1988-89 323, remove the bearing
outer race with tool 49-FT01-361 and a press and remove the wheel bearing. On
1988-89 626 and MX-6, press the bearing from the hub using tools, 49-G033-102,
104 and 106.
Inspect the knuckle for cracks, heat damage, or rust. The dust cover may
be left in place unless it is damaged. If it must be replaced, note its
position before removal or scribe alignment marks. Then, install a new one
using a pipe about 3.19 in. (81mm) in diameter and a hammer or press. Replace
the oil seal if it is damaged or worn at the contact surface.
Position the dust cover on the 626 steering knuckle as
shown
Staking the front hub locknut
Inspect the oil seal for proper position. If it has moved upward, press it
back into position. The knuckle should be placed so it is securely supported
by its center, that is, the center of the knuckle should be aligned with the
spindle of the press. Then, press in the new bearing with a piece of pipe
about 2.6 in. (66mm) in diameter bearing only on the outer race.
Install new inner and outer races as required. Make sure that the edge of
the race contacts the steering knuckle. Pack the inner and outer bearing with
grease and install in knuckle. Use tool 49-G030-728 for the 1983-87 626 and
323 to press the hub into the steering knuckle. On 1988-89 323, use tool
49-V001-795 to seat the bearing in the hub. On 1988-89 626 and MX-6, use tools
49-G030-797, 49-F027-007 and 49-H026-103 to install the wheel bearing.
On 1983-87 models, measure the preload with a scale connected to the
caliper mounting hole on the knuckle. Various spacers are available to
increase or decrease the preload. Preload should be 1.7-6.9 ft. lbs.
On 1988-89 323, measure/adjust the preload as follows:
Insert the bearing and spacer into the steering knuckle and install tool
49-B001-727. Tighten the tool to 145 ft. lbs.
Connect a spring scale to caliper mounting bolt hole on the dust cover
and pull on the scale to measure the bearing preload (starting rotation
torque). This preload should be 0.53-2.55 lbs. for 13 in. wheels and
0.48-2.35 lbs. for 14 in. wheels. When tightening the preload tool, torque
in 36 ft. lb. increments.
If the preload is not within specification, spacers are available in a
variety of thicknesses to adjust it. Increase the spacer thickness when the
preload is too high and decrease the thickness when preload is too low.
Install the inner and outer grease seals. Press fit the hub through the
bearings into the knuckle.
Installation of the knuckle and hub is in the reverse order of removal.
Always use a new axle locknut and cotter pin. On 323s, torque the axle shaft
locknut to 116-174 ft. lbs. On the 626 and MX6 torque the locknut to 116-124
ft. lbs. Stake the locknut after tightening. Use a small cold chisel to stake
the locknut tab. After the tab is staked, make sure that at least 0.16 in.
(4mm) of the tab is in the groove.
Front End Alignment
CASTER AND CAMBER
Caster is the forward or rearward tilt of the upper end of the
kingpin, or the upper ball joint, which results in a slight tilt of the steering
axis forward or backward. Rearward tilt is referred to as a positive caster,
while forward tilt is referred to as negative caster.
Camber is the inward or outward tilt from the vertical, measured
in degrees, of the front wheels at the top. An outward tilt gives the wheel
positive camber. Proper camber is critical to assure even tire wear.
Measuring caster
Measuring camber
Caster and camber are preset by the manufacturer. They require
adjustment only if the suspension and/or steering linkage components are
damaged; with the exception of RX-7s and rear wheel drive 626s, caster and
camber changes can only be made by replacing damaged parts.
On 1979-82 626s, caster and camber may be changed by rotating the
shock absorber support. If they cannot be brought within specifications, replace
or repair suspension parts as necessary.
On RX-7s, caster and camber are adjusted by changing the position
of the upper strut mounting block.
Front end alignment is not a procedure for the
do-it-yourselfer. Since caster and camber are best checked with an alignment
machine, figures in the accompanying chart are only intended for reference.
Measurement and adjustment procedures are only given here for toe-in setting,
which is adjustable on all vehicles.
TOE-IN
Toe-in is the difference in the distance between the front wheels,
as measured at both the front and rear of the front tires.
Raise the front of the car so that its front wheels are just clear of the
ground.
Use a scribing block to mark a line at the center of each tire tread while
rotating the wheels by hand.
Measuring toe-in
Measure the distance between the marked lines at both their front and
rear.
Take both measurements at equal distances from the
ground.
Toe-in is equal to the difference between the front and rear measurements
(front figure is smaller).
To adjust the toe-in, loosen the tie rod locknuts and turn both tie rods
an equal amount until the proper measurement is obtained.
